One of the more common alterations I do is taking in the waist and center back on pants and skirts.
Most people try and solve this problem by just making a dart or two in the back of the pants.
That doesn’t work too well if your pants or skirt is made of thick fabric and has double stitched seams.
This is when this alteration comes in handy and it works on pants and skirts alike.
For this illustration, I have a skirt:
Pin how much you need to take in and record the amounts along the waist and the center back seam as I did in the second photo of this post.
Or use your favorite method of transferring markings.
This skirt has a belt loop at the center back. With a seam ripper or a pair of small pointed scissors, take off the belt loop, making sure you pay attention to how it is attached because you are going to reattach it in the same way after you make the alteration:
Remove any tags that are sewn in:
Open up the horozontal waist seam by about four inches or more (2″ on either side of the center back) with your seam ripper or scissors:
If there is stitching along the top edge of the waistband, take out about 3 inches of that (1 1/2″ on either side of the center back seam).
Now, this skirt does not have a center back seam. Most pants and jeans don’t either.
If yours doesn’t have a center back seam, don’t worry, we are going to put one in and it won’t show, as I’ll illustrate later.
This skirt needed to be taken in 3/4″ total in the waist. So, that means, I need to take in 3/8″ on both sides of the center back.
I took a ruler and marked the skirt 3/8″ away from the center back (make sure you mark to the left of the center and to the right of the center), one at the top of the band and one at the bottom of the band:
See the blue pen mark in the photo above? Well, you probably don’t want to use a blue pen, but I thought you’d be able to see it better than my marking pen.
Make these marks on the outside waistband and the inside waistband because you have to take in both!
Just to clarify, your markings should look like this:
As you can tell in the photo above, if you don’t have a center back seam, you can draw one with a washable marker, or press it in, or eyeball it.
When you don’t have a center back seam, you are going to create one to take the waistline in. Don’t worry, it will be covered by the belt loop. The best way I’ve found to insure that my seam is hidden under the belt loop, is to sew it to the right (or left) of the actual center back seam that you see double stitched below the waistband. See how it doesn’t line up exactly? That’s what you want. In this case, I moved it over about 1/8″ inch.
To take in the waistband, fold the waistband along the new imaginary seamline, right sides together. (If your garment came with a center back seam, of course you’ll just stitch a line parallel to the seamline.) Match the blue dots to each other and pin them in place:
Stitch in that new 3/8″ seam:
Most of the time, I cut the fold and spread the new seam out flat to reduce bulk in the waistband area.
However, if this is your first time with this alteration, wait and make sure everything is going fit together well before you trim it. If you have taken in a small amount, you may just want to leave it alone and not trim it. It’s up to you.
Now, we’re going to move to the skirt (or pants) for a few minutes, so leave the waistband until later.
Turn the skirt or pants to the underside. You need to take out the topstitching next.
Sometimes, the manufacturer will stitch the topstitching with a chain stitch. These are great because you can grab one thread and pull and the whole seam will come out. Just make sure you don’t pull out more than you meant to!
On this skirt I had one row of chain stitch and one row of regular stitching:
Take out the topstitching with a seam ripper or scissors.
Take in the skirt or pants the desired amount, tapering the seam towards the original seam like this:
Again, I don’t just guess on how much to take in, I have pinned it first and then transferred the markings so I know exactly where to stitch the new seam.
Once you have the new seam stitched, turn the garment to the right side and topstitch the seam just like it was originally:
In the photo above, you can tell where the old seam was, but don’t worry, that will fade quickly and most people don’t notice it anyway.
Here is where you want to reattach the belt loop.
Stitch the labels back on:
Now, topstitch to top of the waistband:
Stitch the waistband to the skirt (or pants). I usually topstitch this area closed:
Topstitch the top of the belt loop and then the bottom to hold it in place:
Here’s a look at the inside:
This is what it should look like on the outside. It should look the same as before you started, only smaller!