If you have any sewing related questions, just leave a question or comment here and I’ll respond right away. You can also e-mail me at thesewinggarden@gmail.com.
If you’d like to recieve this blog in your e-mail inbox whenever I write a new post, click on the link in the upper right hand column, put in your e-mail address and Feedburner will take care of the rest!
Thanks,
Linda
Hi Linda,
Thanks for responding to my email so promptly. By the way, I do alterations out of my home for ready-to-wear clothing (mostly women) and I love it.
I would like to change my narrow leg (peg leg) pants into cuffed capris. Of course, there is not enough room once I fold up the hem for the cuff. Is this something I should even attempt or can I do a faux cuff?
Happy Thanksgiving,
Linda M.
I forgot to add my response to Linda here back in November 2009. So, here it is:
Yes, without that extra fabric needed for the cuff, you’ll either have to sew on some extra, which would be hidden in the cuff or put on a faux cuff. Glad you love doing the alterations!
I am about to hem a Prom dress that has 9 layers to it.
The first 3 outside layers are net.
Then the main dress is satin.
The rest are underlayers of netting
and the last layer is netting sew to fabric
What is the easiest way to measure this gown and cut and stitch?
Should I start inside out or outside in? When I measured the inside layer it was 4” too long.
Thanks
PS
That stool idea is great and it too saved my back
Joy,
You might start this whole process by cutting the netting right at the floor. Then, take a look at how the netting hangs. Trim any that is extended on the floor. When you get that at the proper length and you like how it looks, then think about how high off the ground you want the dress to be. If it is 1 inch off the floor, then I would take the dress over to the ironing board and put on one layer at a time and use your seam gauge to cut that 1 inch off all the way around. tehn repeat with the other layers. Try this on just one of a few layers first.
Then, take your scraps of netting and practice your serged edge (or machine stitch edge) that you want to use. This will give you the opportunity to change tension settings if you need to before you sew on the real dress.
Some people just leave the cut edge alone and you could sure do that if you like tha tlook. You’ll just need to make sure you cut it nicely, of course! On the satin layer, I would definitely finish that layer with a rolled serged edge if you have a serger.
Hope that helps!
Linda
hi.
thank you for publishing such helpful information!
my sister sewed a mid-thigh length coat out of a poly batting with a nylon outer layer. it didn’t fit her right and she’s too frustrated to even look at it, so i’ve taken it on. there are 2 darts in the back to make it fitted at the waist, but this is causing it to puff/pooch at the rear rather than flare out. i’m trying to figure out what to do to make it lay along the rear without tucking under. if this makes any sense, might you have a suggestion?
thanks a lot!
sosa
After e-mailing back and forth, we realized that this coat is going to be boxy in shape because of the batting. It’s hard to get a thick coat to drape well when batting is not pliable.
I’m trying to get the courage to start a sewing/repair business from home (in addition to working). I’ve been sewing since I was a little girl — my mom was a seamstress in some fashion for most of her life. How you do you get started? Thanks for any info.
Hi Jill,
I’m glad you asked! I’m not sure how much of my website you’ve read, but did you click on the tab on the upper right side of this page that says, “Sew For Dough”? After that, you might want to read this post:
http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/2009/06/05/pricing-strategies-for-alterations/
If you’ve read both of those, and you have more questions, write me back and let me know specifically what you’re thinking of. All the gals I know who have started a business like mine have said it was really easy, so I don’t want you to feel imtimidated at all. No question is a bad question, so let me know what your thougths are after reading these. I check my e-mail two or three times a day, so I’ll be sure to answer quickly.
What method do you use for replacing a zipper in pants with a placket? (dress pants or jeans)
I basically just pay attention to how the zipper was put in in the first place as I rip it out. Then, I just put the new one in the same way. Each garment is different and that’s why I haven’t written a post on zippers yet. I may try. I just don’t get a call to do those much anymore.
I live in Texas and get a lot of jean zippers to replace. If I can avoid taking the top stitching out on the placket it saves a lot of time on replacement . I use the closest match that I can and sew through all layers on the right side of the zipper. This works the best on denim as it just dissapears I then change to heavy denim gold for the rest. This shortcut really helps on some of the newer fancy jeans with the special threads that you can’t buy. You can usually use a seam ripper to cut the top of the zipper out of the waistband and just turn the top of the new zipper under and stitch well.
Question and help, please! All thoughts appreciated!
I bought some velvet type pants online..they were so big it was a joke.They have an elasticized waist and huge legs. Now, I was going to try adn remake them and them I thought , Hey, turn the pants into a long skirt (with slit in back) . I don’t want it to look like all the “remade jeans skirts with gussets” and wondered if it might just work to undo the leg seams, crotch seams, and probably straightenout he bum and tummy curve into a straight seam?
Phew..I hope I wrote it so that it makes sense. I will never remake the pants, I know that, but heck, a long skirt for evening would be fun!
Thanks !!!
marie-elena
I have never done that myself, but I don’t see why not. You should give it a try. The only thing that might be a problem is that when you open out the crotch area, you’ll have a curved seam. If you have a skirt pattern, you might want to use that to make those front and back center seams straight. As you know, you’ll have a center front seam, which most skirts don’t have, but it should be fine. Most people don’t notice that.
Velvet can be very tricky, though. Sometimes, while sewing it, your presser foot may make an indentation as it sews. Pressing velvet is tricky too. The best thing that works for that is a needle board, but I haven’t seen those sold in years. Perhaps JoAnn Fabrics, Clothilde or Nancy’s Notions may have one. Check online first.
I wish you great success! Let me know how it works,
Hi I would just like to say what a wounderful site you have, I have had so much fun browsing though all your archives, I am from across the big pond England and have tryed to buy a jean o magig but do not seem to be able to find one any were here do you think you could send me a web link or some were i could purchuse one yours hopingful sally x
Hello Linda,
Your blog/site continues to be a brilliant source of information and inspiration to me! There doesn’t seem to be anything similar from the uk and it has really helped with my alterations and repairs business – so thank you!
I was wondering if you had any advice with regards to altering a tux jacket – my customer wants it taken up 2 and a half inches and it has curved rather than rightangled edges. I have never done this before and am a bit daunted – How straightforward is this going to be do you think? Would you go in through the bottom edge seam? How long do you think it should take? Would a template of the curve be useful in replicating what s currently there!
I get the feeling this chap knows his onions and I really would like to do a good job on it! Apologies for all the questions, but i’m in need of a bit of reassurance (or maybe a reality check!!!), and advice very gratefully received!
Kindest regards and many thanks,
Niki
I’m so glad the site has been helpful to you!
No, you don’t need a reality check, you just need reassurance! Yes, you are correct…make a template of the entire hem including the curved edge. Then, move that template up the 2 1/2″ and hand baste a new hemline there. Add at least 2 inches to that measurement so that you have fabric to fold up for the hem. Stitch the new hem. you may need to shorten the pockets if they hang down after the alteration is complete.
Note: I sent Niki a very detailed set of instructions for this alteration. If you need the same, just e-mail me and i’ll send you a copy.
Hi linda the dress I altered for my daughter went wel thanks again to your websight, I have another problem I am trying to put a new zip in an anaorak it has a facing on one side and when I sew it in I seem to keep streching the coat as I sew in the zip ????? dont now what im doing wrong plzzz can you help
There is a company in New York called Wawak that ships international. They are an amazing supplier for the sewing industry and the prices are wonderful. The website is http://www.wawak.com
I’ve been on your mailing list for awhile, but I only recently tried my first alteration. My three year old daughter keeps getting taller, but no wider, so her pants are the right length, but they fall down. Last night I tried your example of taking in the waistband on her jeans. They have an elastic waist. I ignored that and took in the waistband just as in your instructions. I figured the elastic needed to be shortened as well, and when I made the center seam it would hold the elastic in place. They turned out well, but I’m confused about one thing. I didn’t realize the waistband would come completely away from the top of the pants. There wasn’t anything in your instructions about reattaching it to the top of the pants. So the new seam I put in the waistband went down to far for me to slip the top of the pants back in. Did I miss something in the instructions? Also, I couldn’t put the belt loop back on because it was to thick for my sewing machine to handle. Is there an alteration I can make to my machine to accomadate this? It seems like I had heard of a special jeans foot somewhere.
Can you give me some pointers on taking in side seams of slacks with flat felled seams?
Thanks so much, I have gotten so much help from your sight!
Hi Linda,
Once again, I find myself in need of some sewing assistance!
I have a customer who has bought a very pretty maxi dress which has a concealed/invisible zipper up one side. The side which hasn’t got the zip falls beautifully (it has three layers 2 chiffon, 1 satin), but the side where the zipper is looks lumpy and doesn’t fall as flat which is a problem for her. I have looked at the construction and there doesn’t appear to be anything that is causing this – no puchering, nice smooth seams (it was an expensive dress and made well). I have tried remedying it by attaching the remaining bottom of the zipper (approx 1″) to the seam but this doesn’t appear to have done anything!
Do you have any suggestions or is it simply how the dress is designed?
Any advice hugely appreciated as always!
Thank you (and congratulations on the upcoming wedding!)
Best wishes
Niki
Thank you!
Yes, I have had that trouble before. I have tried taking out the zipper and replacing it, doing what you did, with a partial re-sew, and nothing seems to work. After consulting others, we have decided that those invisible zippers many times protrude and there seems to be no way to remedy it. I would tell your customer that you tried and have consulted someone else as well, but it is just one of those unfortunate things. I wish I had a better solution. Oh, and for some reason, it seems this problem happens more on chiffons than other fabrics.
I hope your customer can stilll wear the dress. You could put in a regular zipper, which probably would take care of the problem, but it might not look near as nice as the invisible kind. (It’s just a thought…..)
My daughter’s ball dress is lined with an empire waist and cut out sides. She is short waisted so the sides are not lying flat. Any suggestions for altering from the waist? I have it pinned up about 1 1/2 inches and it looks great but not sure how to go about sewing it with the linings.
THanks
Hello, I have a evening gown that I need to have altered…..size 16 petite needs to be probably in between a 12/14. It has 4 layers (top is lace/sequins, silk, tool then another layer of maybe taffeta or something. Needs to be shortened by about 3″ and taken in around the hips and bust area. I was wondering if we should take some of the puff out around the leg area so it doesnt look like a full on ball gown especially because I am short?? Is this possible as well?
I am taking this in on Monday to a lady I read about on the internet she seems very qualified but I am so scared about cutting into this beautiful dress. I wanted to ask question prior to taking it in so that I am some what educated on what she is telling me. Thanks for any information/advise you can offer.
Also, can you guesstimate on alteration cost of this?
Thanks
Paige
Well, it’s going to be expensive, that is for sure. Whenever you have extensive downsizing and hemming, it may end up being more than you bought the dress for. As to the exact cost, or even an estimate, I cannot tell for sure since the dress is not in front of me, but each layer of that dress needs to be hemmed and I don’t know how dense the sequins are. They may need to be sewn back on by hand. If so, that adds to the cost as well. The poof can be taken in, but again, that is another charge. I would take it to two shops for estimates. If the lady you are seeing on Monday seems qualified by what you read, I ‘m sure she is. You just have to figure if the cost is worth it to you.
I wish I could be more help, but just trust your instincts. Also, maybe ask for “before” and “after” photos to see if you like their work.
I hope that helps,
Linda
HI. I installed a corset back on a secondhand wedding gown following your online directions and I think I was successful, however, I cannot determine where to stop the loops at the bottom of the dress. My question is how far down do you make the corset back lacing loops go down the back… all the way to the end of the opening or stop the loops at 2 or 3 inches up from that center skirt seam so that the modesty panel can cover it? Thanks. This website has been a real blessing!
That’s a good question. I didn’t address that in the post because each dress is different. You want to make sure that when you lace up the back, the loops don’t smash into each other, so you can stop a few inches above the bottom, like you said.Just experiment until you get it to lace correctly. The modesty panel should cover up the area below your lacings.
Hope that helps!
Linda
I need to alter flower girls size 2 dress, its a lined bodice no sleeves do I take it apart at the waist or zipper?
Thank you so much for sharing your extensive knowledge! Your photographs are so very helpful in the illustration of your tutorials. You are an eloquent writer and a very talented individual. You are a true professional.
Wow, Kate, you made my day! Glad you like the blog.
Happy Sewing!
Linda
Started a small shop in Sept. I am doing alterations and giving sewing lessons, selling notions, etc. This is the first big messup I have made. If you can, advise me about the way I am handling this. I was given a pair of men’s nylon pants with zip off legs, swimsuit lining, My job was to hem them by machine one inch. I did that easily, then went to press and my iron was too hot and melted the cuff a bit. I have ordered what I believe to be an identical pair. Is that what you would do in this given circumstance? Just found your blog!! Thanks, love it.
Hi,
I’m so sorry to hear about this sewing accident. If it makes you feel better, we have all done the same thing at one time or another. Yes, you are doing the right thing….order an identical and take the loss. Don’t let it discourage you. You will only do that once. I think it is always good to tell your customer the truth. Sometimes, when the accident isn’t so bad, the customer doesn’t care as much as I thought they would. I don’t know what your spiritual background is, but I always pray before I sew on someone’s garment. I pray that God would help me do my best work, not to wreck the item by tearing the fabric, stain it, scorch it, cut it by mistake, etc. He has been so gracious in answering those prayers. I also try to pray for the customer as well and sometimes ask them what I can pray for.
Thanks for your question and I’m glad you found the blog. I hope you find it really helpful. Congratulations on your new shop. I am praying you’ll be very successful. With the way you are handling this, I know you’ll be a great success.
Linda
can you buy back corset already made?
I believe there is a place that sells those. Go over to the post I wrote on how to put in a corset back and read through the comment section. Hope that helps!
Just saw your reply Linda. Thanks! I guess I have only been praying on really difficult tasks…don’t want to use all my prayers for foolishness
Yes, God is good and will watch over us. The new pants were 27 bucks, but worth the peace of mind for doing things “right”.
I have to pose another question. A customer brought me a vintage dress made out of a crepe type material. She would like it to be partially lined. How would you proceed? Thanks in advance. I need to remember to stop back to check your responses. Love your blog’s contents and ideas. Keep it coming. Cathy
Hi Cathy,
Whenever you have to make a pattern for a garment that is already sewn, use this post for help: http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/2011/12/02/how-to-make-a-sewing-pattern/ Of course, you will make a pattern for the part you want to line and not more than that. Hope that helps!
Been there done a similar thing only it was on a black dress that turned and bit white –fixed it with permanent black fabric paint and no one knew the difference except me which about killed me—–didn’t charge for the heming on that one and told the owner who was amazed that I could fix it….
Whew, glad that worked out!
Refreshing to know that I am not alone in having “goofs”. I think more than anything, it just makes ya mad at yourself for doing whatever ya did to cause the problem. I agree it is best to let the customer in on it. If they find error with your work on their own, they most likely will tell everyone you can’t be trusted. Good luck with future projects!
…wondering if you could direct me with something. I have a boss who is constantly giving me his suits to mend. Recently, it is a black suit with a huge rip at the elbow. I have to patch it because it is more like a square cut out. Any suggestions?
Thank you.
Paula
Are you charging him for your work? I hope so! I hope he doesn’t expect you to do these alterations for free. There aren’t too many ways to repair this problem. You could put big patches on each elbow, but only if you find something suitable (no pun intended!) There used to be people who could weave new threads into a tear like this but I don’t know if they exist anymore. It used to be a pretty scarce profession and imagine it is even harder to find someone who does that now. If you live in a large city, ask a tailor’s shop and see what they do. Hope that helps. Linda
Hi Linda, I guess I’m giving the at-home alterations business a go. Already started handing out cards = very nervous! My question is, how do you and most people handle work for family. Just an example: I recently did repairs/alterations on 12 garments for my niece. I really have trouble taking money from family, but at the same time I did put some time into it (about 3-4 hours) since some of the items had to be partially taken apart to fix. I’m so torn – any advice? I was considering a 2/3 off family discount. I’d probably charge a stranger at least $75 for what I did – I was going to tell her $25 – sound fair for family? Or should I just say ‘no charge’?
Thanks,
Sharon
Oh, I am so glad it has helped you!
Linda
Just my 2 cents Sharon….I have done alterations for quite a while but started doing them in the area I live a couple of years ago…..I have the same problem with charging friends/family for jobs….but have come to realize that I need to treat them as I would my customers…not possible to make an income if I don’t!! I would however give them a family discount…I don’t think that you should give them that much of a discount though!!! How about 20-25% off ? I hate to see you doing all of that hard work for nothing…and there are some friends/family who will begin to take you for granted…..
Treat yourself as a professional and your customers will do the same!
Best Wishes/Luck in your new business…
Jan
Thank you for your reply, Jan. I do agree with you. I have to get over the idea that I shouldn’t charge anything. I guess I just need to establish ‘something’ so I can be consistent and, in some ways, that might make them not feel funny about asking. They’ll know they are getting a huge break, and hopefully that will be acceptable. I appreciate your thoughts. I absolutely love this site – it has been so, so helpful to me – none compare!
Thanks again,
Sharon
This is an awesome response. Thanks, Jan!
Don’t know if this will help — I keep trying to get started in the same thing. I’ve done my “homework” and have a printed list of what I charge regular customers and keep it posted in a fairly obvious location. Then when friends or family ask for help I offer them 25% off. They feel they’ve gotten a bargain and I don’t feel like I’ve gotten cheated. Hope this helps a bit.
Great advice. Thanks Jill!
I am trying to add about 2-2.5 inches to the top of a strapless banded silk gown. There is a corset & boning. I ultimately can zip it up but I think it would be more flattering with a little room. I was thinking of cutting a v shaped slit in the back and piping the rough edge and putting a piece of silk- covered elastic across the top. The zipper is on the side. I am wondering if this will compromise the integrity of the corset or if you have another suggestion to add a little room? Thanks!
I make dance costumes out of ready wear sounds like something Ijust did and it worked just fine send pics & let us know how it works
My husband Simon and I are believers living in England. Simon works in London. Some one told him that one of the receptionist was due to be married in 2 months but was too large for her beautiful wedding dress as she was pregnant. She had tried to find a dressmaker to alter the dress, but they all either refused or would have charged the earth! Simon said that he was sure I could alter it for her! He has far too much confidence in me sometimes! First I panicked, then I prayed! I then Googled and found your site.The upshot is I altered the dress and it fitted perfectly on the day. She says I am now her Fairy Godmother
THANK YOU SO MUCH for your clear and so helpful instructions! Look out for me in Glory!
Hi Mary! It sounds like your husband has great faith in you!
You made my day! So glad you found this site and it helped you alter that dress. And so thankful you are a believer. Yes, I’ll look for you. Will we be sewing in heaven?
Linda