Comments on: Let’s Serge a Hem http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/2009/07/01/lets-serge-a-hem/ Teaching you to sew for fun or profit Tue, 15 Dec 2009 21:48:33 +0000 http://wordpress.com/ hourly 1 By: sewfordough http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/2009/07/01/lets-serge-a-hem/#comment-98 sewfordough Thu, 06 Aug 2009 21:13:17 +0000 http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/?p=817#comment-98 Hi David, Great question. I am certainly no expert on the cover stitch as my serger doesn't have that capability. Let me give you a few things that might help and then I'll tell you what I would do based on my experience making swimwear, which is very similar to making briefs. Here is a definition from the Janome Sewing Machine website that might help (maybe you already know this stuff): Each of the topics that you listed are accomplished using a serger. Serging is the act of "sewing" using a serger. Overlocking or Overlock refers to a 4 thread serge stitch. Flatlock is a technique in which two pieces of fabric are serged together and then pulled apart slightly to achieve a flat stitch which connects the two pieces of fabric. Coverstitch is the stitch that you see on ready to wear garments at hem lines. Secondly, this article explains the flatlock technique: http://www.ca.uky.edu/hes/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-MMB-198.pdf Ok, now from my own experience. I have used a basic sewing machine to stitch that center front seam. Then, I do a double topstitch on the right side of the briefs to reinforce the seam. (I'm not sure if you have experience sewing or not, so please tell me to better explain anything you're not familiar with) As for the elastic, I have had good luck serging the edge of the waist to keep the fabric from fraying (not sure if you'd need to on the material you are talking about or not) and then I fold under the edge of the waist line the same amount as the elastic is wide. In other words, if the elastic is 1" wide, I fold under one inch of fabric. To figure out how much elastic to cut, measure your waist. Take that number and subtract about 4 inches. (Most books will tell you to use the waist measurement plus 2-4", but that is way too much elastic. If you do that, you'll have a very loose fitting brief). So, let's say your waist measurement is 34". I cut a piece of elastic that is 30". Then, make a circle out of that elastic and stitch the ends together, overlapping the ends about a half inch. Divide your elastic into fourths and mark the fourths with pins and divide your briefs into fourths and mark those quadrants with pins. Match the corresponding pins on the briefs to those on the elastic. The elastic should be smaller in cirumference than the waist itself. As you sew, pull the elastic in that quadrant until it lays flat and then stitch that quadrant while holding the stretched elastic as you sew. Repeat until you have all 4 quadrants sewn. (You can also put the elastic inside the folded over edge of the waist. That would conceal the elastic and you wouldn't see it. It might also make it softer where it comes in contact with the skin). Does this make sense? If so, follow those same instructions for each leg. If not, let me know where I can explain it better. Let me ask those questions again... can you put in the elastic with a serger? I think so, as long as you move the top knife out of the way of your serging so it doesn't cut off the elastic. Can you do a flatlock stitch...I'm not sure that would work. because you have to pull the two pieces of fabric apart. Can you do a cover stitch? I think it would work for the hem of the legs, but then you'd have to put the elastic in, so I think my method of putting elastic in might work better and it happens all in one step. Remember, the serger makes a loopy seam and the sewing machine does a straight running stitch. You may have already thought about that and what you want your stitches to look like. Does that help? Have I answered your questions? If not, ask me again. Send photos if you need to. Your question makes me think that I should put these instructions on my blog along with pictures so you can see each step that I explained. I'm a visual learner and I think most people are. Others may want to learn this same technique. Thanks, David. I am impressed that you are taking on this project. It is not hard, but most people don't want to try it because they think it is too intimidating, but once you know the technique, it isn't bad. Getting the pattern right before you cut it out is half the battle. I wish you success and let me know how it goes or if I can be of further help. Linda Hi David,
Great question. I am certainly no expert on the cover stitch as my serger doesn’t have that capability. Let me give you a few things that might help and then I’ll tell you what I would do based on my experience making swimwear, which is very similar to making briefs.

Here is a definition from the Janome Sewing Machine website that might help (maybe you already know this stuff):
Each of the topics that you listed are accomplished using a serger. Serging is the act of “sewing” using a serger. Overlocking or Overlock refers to a 4 thread serge stitch. Flatlock is a technique in which two pieces of fabric are serged together and then pulled apart slightly to achieve a flat stitch which connects the two pieces of fabric. Coverstitch is the stitch that you see on ready to wear garments at hem lines.

Secondly, this article explains the flatlock technique:
http://www.ca.uky.edu/hes/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-MMB-198.pdf

Ok, now from my own experience. I have used a basic sewing machine to stitch that center front seam. Then, I do a double topstitch on the right side of the briefs to reinforce the seam. (I’m not sure if you have experience sewing or not, so please tell me to better explain anything you’re not familiar with) As for the elastic, I have had good luck serging the edge of the waist to keep the fabric from fraying (not sure if you’d need to on the material you are talking about or not) and then I fold under the edge of the waist line the same amount as the elastic is wide. In other words, if the elastic is 1″ wide, I fold under one inch of fabric. To figure out how much elastic to cut, measure your waist. Take that number and subtract about 4 inches. (Most books will tell you to use the waist measurement plus 2-4″, but that is way too much elastic. If you do that, you’ll have a very loose fitting brief). So, let’s say your waist measurement is 34″. I cut a piece of elastic that is 30″. Then, make a circle out of that elastic and stitch the ends together, overlapping the ends about a half inch. Divide your elastic into fourths and mark the fourths with pins and divide your briefs into fourths and mark those quadrants with pins. Match the corresponding pins on the briefs to those on the elastic. The elastic should be smaller in cirumference than the waist itself. As you sew, pull the elastic in that quadrant until it lays flat and then stitch that quadrant while holding the stretched elastic as you sew. Repeat until you have all 4 quadrants sewn. (You can also put the elastic inside the folded over edge of the waist. That would conceal the elastic and you wouldn’t see it. It might also make it softer where it comes in contact with the skin).

Does this make sense? If so, follow those same instructions for each leg. If not, let me know where I can explain it better.

Let me ask those questions again… can you put in the elastic with a serger? I think so, as long as you move the top knife out of the way of your serging so it doesn’t cut off the elastic. Can you do a flatlock stitch…I’m not sure that would work. because you have to pull the two pieces of fabric apart. Can you do a cover stitch? I think it would work for the hem of the legs, but then you’d have to put the elastic in, so I think my method of putting elastic in might work better and it happens all in one step.

Remember, the serger makes a loopy seam and the sewing machine does a straight running stitch. You may have already thought about that and what you want your stitches to look like.

Does that help? Have I answered your questions? If not, ask me again. Send photos if you need to. Your question makes me think that I should put these instructions on my blog along with pictures so you can see each step that I explained. I’m a visual learner and I think most people are. Others may want to learn this same technique.

Thanks, David. I am impressed that you are taking on this project. It is not hard, but most people don’t want to try it because they think it is too intimidating, but once you know the technique, it isn’t bad.

Getting the pattern right before you cut it out is half the battle.

I wish you success and let me know how it goes or if I can be of further help.

Linda

]]> By: David http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/2009/07/01/lets-serge-a-hem/#comment-96 David Thu, 06 Aug 2009 14:05:09 +0000 http://sewfordough.wordpress.com/?p=817#comment-96 Hello, My name is David and I hope you can help with some advice about machines please. I want to make men’s briefs with a stretch fabric and am assuming that I can do this with an Overlocker/ Coverstitch machine. I’m not sure if the coverstitch can be opened out flat, for the centre front seam or if I should be looking at a Flatlock machine and also using this machine to flatlock the elastic to the legs and waist. Help pppp Pleaseeeee, Cheers, David Hello,

My name is David and I hope you can help with some advice about machines please. I want to make men’s briefs with a stretch fabric and am assuming that I can do this with an Overlocker/ Coverstitch machine.

I’m not sure if the coverstitch can be opened out flat, for the centre front seam or if I should be looking at a Flatlock machine and also using this machine to flatlock the elastic to the legs and waist.

Help pppp Pleaseeeee, Cheers, David

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